Monday, June 30, 2025

SWEDEN (Stockholm, Malmo, Ystad, Lund)


Sweden left us smitten with its unmistakable charm. Stockholm is one of the most impressive historic European capitals we’ve visited. We arrived early in the morning on an overnight cruise from Helsinki and spent two days exploring the city, though we easily could have stayed longer—there’s so much more to see and discover.

Our brief itinerary:

Day 1: Stockholm - Arrival, Old town, Sodermalm
Day 2: Stockholm - Boat tour, Vasa Museum, Skansen, Karlaplan
Day 3: Malmo, Ystad, Stone Ales Stenar
Day 4: Family visit to Denmark
Day 5: Old town Malmo, Lund


Tips and Tricks:

  • Could spend more time in Swedish Lapland (south)
  • There are a few national parks you could visit.
  • Multi day Bike tours are popular (even for families with kids)


Day 1 — First Steps Into Stockholm

We reached Stockholm early in the morning, sailing in on an overnight cruise from Helsinki that drifted through calm waters and tiny islands at daybreak. After checking in at the Sheraton—perfectly located for exploring the city—we walked to City Hall, the iconic red-brick landmark where the annual Nobel Prize banquet is held. Tickets needed to be pre-booked to see the hall and go up the bell tower, so we secured a slot for the next day and continued toward the old town. On the way, we stopped at Riddarholmen Church, the medieval burial place of Swedish monarchs, its dramatic spire rising sharply above the waterfront. Lunch was at a cozy Italian restaurant before we wandered to the Parliament House and then the Royal Palace, whose sprawling museum complex deserves several hours to fully appreciate. 

Old town

From there, we slipped into Gamla Stan, Stockholm’s beautifully preserved old town, its narrow lanes, golden-hued buildings, and charming boutiques creating the perfect backdrop for exploring the Nobel Prize Museum—modern, insightful, and genuinely fascinating. We walked back to the hotel along bustling Drottninggatan before heading out again in the evening for Indian street food. As the sun softened, we made our way to Södermalm and climbed up to Skinnarviksberget, a rocky hilltop famous for its panoramic sunset views. After taking in the glowing skyline, we walked leisurely along the river, enjoying the peaceful water and the city lights as we made our way back.

Here is our walking map.

Day 2 — Boats, Museums, and the Best of Central Stockholm

We started the morning with pastries and coffee at Café Skipperborg Bageri before boarding our boat tour. Piku was thrilled, and the ride offered a relaxed, scenic introduction to Stockholm’s island-dotted geography. Afterward, we walked through the elegant Karlaplan area and had lunch at Eataly, a lively and upscale spot surrounded by stylish boutiques and tree-lined streets. From there, an Uber brought us to the Vasa Museum, which was absolutely breathtaking—the nearly intact 17th-century warship towers over visitors, its ornate carvings and massive hull frozen in time. 

Vasa Museum

After soaking in the Vasa’s history, we continued to Skansen, the world’s oldest open-air museum. Wandering through the recreated 18th-century Swedish village felt like stepping back in time, complete with traditional farmsteads, craft workshops, and even a small zoo that Piku really enjoyed. Later, we returned to City Hall for our pre-scheduled climb up the bell tower—tickets we had wisely purchased the day before—where the timed entry ensured a smooth ascent and sweeping views of Stockholm’s rooftops and waterways. Dinner was at Tamarind Indian in the Östermalm district, an easy walk from our centrally located hotel. Afterward, we headed to the station to catch our pre-booked train to Malmö, settling in for the five-hour journey with our packed snacks as the countryside faded into night.


Day 3 — Malmö Winds and Southern Sweden Charm

Ystad
We arrived in Malmö past midnight, relieved to find our hotel just steps from the station. Morning brought strong gusts—Malmö is famously windy—but after breakfast we picked up our rental car and headed south toward Ystad. This seaside town was like something from a storybook, full of pastel half-timbered houses, cobblestone streets, and a quiet charm that reminded me of Bruges in Belgium. In the town center stood an old church, beautifully aged and perfectly anchored in the heart of the village. We enjoyed a delicious lunch at Garden Steps and later grabbed coffee at Maria Caffét, each place adding to the town’s cozy, small-European vibe. Our next stop was Ales Stenar, often described as Sweden’s version of Stonehenge—a formation of 59 massive boulders positioned in a ship-like outline on a cliff overlooking the sea. The short hike from the parking lot was breezy but manageable, and the windswept views were spectacular. We returned to Malmö for an evening stroll around the old town before settling in for dinner at Art of Spices


Ales Stenar

Day 4 — A Family Day in Denmark

This day was dedicated to visiting family in Odense, Denmark. Normally it’s a simple pair of short train rides—Malmö to Copenhagen, then Copenhagen to Odense—but fate added some adventure when a broken rail line forced us into a complicated multi-hop route. Even with the delays and an extra two hours spent in transit, we eventually reached Odense, where Piku reunited with her cousins, making the whole effort completely worthwhile. The day became a heartwarming pause in our travels, filled with family time and the comforting familiarity of shared stories.



Day 5 — Malmö Moments, Bridges, and a University Town

Lund University
Our final morning began in Malmö’s Central Square, where we admired the historic church, the fountain, and the cheerful civic bustle around the old town. Lunch, unfortunately, was a letdown at Green Chilli—easily the worst “Indian” food we’ve had. In desperate need of redemption, we walked to Urban Turban, which thankfully revived both our spirits and appetite. From there we visited Hollandia Bakery—elegant, refined, and known as one of Malmö’s finest—where we treated ourselves to cake and coffee for my birthday Fika. Later, we drove out to the Öresund Bridge viewpoint to admire and photograph the iconic engineering marvel that stretches toward Denmark, part bridge and part underwater tunnel.

Our last stop of the trip was Lund, a beautiful university town with medieval churches, leafy squares, and charming academic buildings. Although many shops were closed for Midsummer, the historic cathedral, old university structures, fountains, and green parks gave us plenty to explore. It felt like stepping into a centuries-old campus still alive with stories, and it was easily one of the prettiest university towns I’ve visited. 

Good bye Sweden
Birthday Fika




Wednesday, June 11, 2025

FINLAND (Helsinki, Poorvo, Nuuksio & Cruise)












Sumit and I have travelled to Scandinavia before on two occasions. Once for a road trip in Iceland and second time for a Norway and Denmark trip. So this time we chose Finland and Sweden. We arrived in Finland first and then took an overnight cruise to Stockholm.

Uppenski Cathedral
Here is our brief itinerary:

  • Day 0 - Arrival
  • Day 1 - Poorvo, Sipponkorpi, Helsinki
  • Day 2 - Nuukiso, Helsinki
  • Day 3 - Suemenlinna, Cruise

Note about cruises -
Overnight cruises between Stockholm, Helsinki, Estonia and even Russia are very popular. Consider one of these options if you don't want to take a flight or drive. Was very comfortable for us. More on this later.

Also, this time I fed my scribble notes to chatgpt to compose the following post. Yay! 

Day 0 — Arrival and Settling In

We landed at the airport in the evening, picked up our rental car, and immediately noticed how narrow yet surprisingly manageable the roads were. Thankfully, we had booked a hotel right in downtown with dedicated parking — an absolute must when driving in the city. After settling in, we took a gentle stroll around the neighborhood, soaking in the atmosphere of the lively yet relaxed urban center before calling it a night.

Day 1 — Porvoo, National Parks & Helsinki by Night

Poorvo
After breakfast, we drove to the charming town of Porvoo. Parking was easy to find, and we spent the morning wandering through the cobblestoned old town, visiting the beautiful Porvoo Cathedral, and strolling along the peaceful riverside. A cozy little café offered us a perfect lunch and some delicious ice cream. The idyllic small-town vibe made the whole visit feel like stepping back in time.
We then attempted to head to Högebergget for views, but Google Maps delivered us to a tiny village with no viewpoint in sight. Pivoting quickly, we rerouted to Byabacken in Sipoonkorpi National Park, where we enjoyed an easy and refreshing 2.1 km hike. Mosquitos were out in full force, convincing us to head straight to a supermarket afterward for repellent! 

Back in Helsinki, we enjoyed a beautiful evening walk along Esplanadi, had dinner at Indus, and unexpectedly caught a vibrant Samba Carnival — dancers, costumes, music, the works. Post-dinner, we wandered through Market Square, climbed up toward the Uspenski Cathedral, and passed fountains and historical buildings on our way back to the hotel. A perfect blend of nature, city life, and surprises.


Canoeing in Nuuksio

Day 2 — Canoeing in Nuuksio & City Exploration

The day began with a drive to Nuuksio National Park, where we rented a canoe and paddled peacefully for two hours on Lake Haukkalampi, surrounded by nothing but forest, water, and the rhythmic sound of paddles dipping into the lake. We grabbed a warm bowl of soup at Haltia afterward. Being a Sunday, nearly everything was closed, and finding lunch became a tiny adventure of its own before we finally settled at Tandoori Flames.

Recharged, we headed back to the city for some shopping at H&M and Mango, then walked to the majestic Helsinki Cathedral and Senate Square. Later, we hopped on a tram — a must-do in Helsinki — which took us back toward the lively Central Station Square, full of statues and people enjoying the day. We skipped the Oodi Library and the zoo due to time, and returned our car in the evening.

Day 3 — Suomenlinna, Ferries & Overnight Cruise

In the morning, we took the ferry to the historic Suomenlinna Fortress (note: ferries run frequently, but it’s always worth double-checking the timetable). We walked across the island to the old submarine, explored the stone walls, and enjoyed the sea breeze before returning to the city for lunch at Indus restaurant. Dinner was takeaway before heading to the port for our Tallink Silja Line cruise — the Symphony. Boarding at 3:30, we were pleasantly surprised by how many kids’ activities the ship offered. The pool area was especially fun, and Piku had a blast. 
Our Executive Suite with promenade views was incredibly comfortable and made the overnight journey feel luxurious. The cruise glided through the Baltic Sea as we relaxed, slept soundly, and woke up to arrive in Stockholm at 10 AM. The views of archipelago closer to Stockholm are beautiful.

Our Cruise Ship

Other Notes:

If you have more time in Finland, consider adding a visit to the magical Santa Claus Village in Rovaniemi, especially if traveling with children. Helsinki is also surrounded by stunning national parks — like Sipoonkorpi, Nuuksio, and Liesjärvi — all perfect for hiking, canoeing, and escaping into quiet Nordic nature.


Friday, May 23, 2025

KOREA (SEOUL, DMZ)













Alright, the plan was to pick a destination that would be a direct flight for us, won't need a visa, would be do-able in four days and a place where none of us (Me and my friend, Alka) had been to before. And there it was, Korea. South Korea, just to be clear ;)

Wearing a Hanbok
Here is our brief itinerary:

Day 1: Palaces, Ikseondong, Spa
Day 2: Gangnam District, Shopping, Spa, Michelin Dinner
Day 3: Day trip to DMZ. Seoul Tower.
Day 4: Squid Games Experience. Insa-dong Cafes, Massage, Gwanjong street food
Day 5: Myeongdong. Fly out 

Here is a quick list of Must Do before I share the details:

  • Spa - 
    • We got massages at a couple of place. Both were good. Just look at google ratings
    • We got a facial at Korea Spa in Myeongdong. Was great!
  • Dine - 
    • At a Michelin star (whichever one you can find a reservation at)
    • Street food @ Gwanjong
    • BHC for their fried chicken
    • Too many cafes, everywhere. And all of them are great! (get suggestions from tiktok)
  • Shopping -
    • Beauty: Shopped for our products at Oliver Young and Nature Republic
    • Clothes: boutique shops, branded shops
    • Accessories: The bling box
  • See/Do -
    • DMZ tour!
    • Wear Hanboks to go see Gyeongbokgung Palace.
    • Ikseon-dong neighborhood for the cutest cafeterias ever!
    • Starfield library and iconic Gangnam statue
    • Walk around the Myeongdong neighborhood at night- so lively!
    • Nightime tour of palaces (we couldn't get a reservation)
    • Squid Games Experience (if you are a fan, else you could skip)

Day 1: Typical touristy day

At the Gyeongbokgung Palace
Our first day after an early morning flight had to be a typical touristy day. You must start at Namdaemum Gate and then walk straight towards the Gyeongbokgung Palace. This a lively neighborhood and you will see statues, small palaces, fountains on your way to the palace. Once here, ask for a Hanbok rental place and before you go in, rent Hanboks. There are many many shops with a lot of variety. We picked a place which offered pastel colored hanboks and also hairdos and accessories. If you are interested, you could also hire a photographer. If I ever visit with family, we will definitely all dress up and get pictures done. Also, entry to the palace is free if you are in traditional costumes. 
We made it in time for the changing of the guard ceremony that happens at 10 am and 2 pm every day. The palace is nice, and makes for beautiful pictures. There are mostly courtyards and once you move to adjacent courtyards, you will find them much less crowded and perfect for pictures. 
Ikseondong
From here you could take the east exit and walk down to the Changdeokgung Palace in your costume (if you have rented it for the entire day) or first return the costumes and then walk to this palace. When we went, parts of it were closed for renovation, but this is an older palace and people recommend visiting the secret garden. The walk takes you through the Bukchon Hanok Village which has old styled houses and lively little shops.  There is Jongmyo Shrine right next to this palace which you could visit to complete you day trip of historical palace in Seoul.
Now we decided to take a break and relax at Cafe Onion, which was close by. Oh my God, such a cute cafe and so many things to offer. From here on we walked to the Bukchon Hanok Village (which closes at 5 pm btw) and on our way stopped at Suwalhasee Cosmetic Store and Nature Republic to shop for some beauty products. 
Next we took a cab to Inseondong neighborhood. Cute little neighborhood with plenty little shops and so much to see and buy. You can get exhausted. And so were we, so we headed straight to a spa, we went to Korea Spa and got ourselves some premium package (which roughly translates to - a long massage and a facial). The massage was good but the facial was awesome. My skin kept glowing for the next few days. We had accomplished quite a lot and were ready to crash.

 

Day 2: Leftover touristy stuff

Gangnam Statue
In the morning we headed straight to the Bongeunsa Buddhist temple in the Gangnam area. Beautiful buddha statue. This place is quiet and calm. There are short trails to walk between temples and the statue and other things to see. You could spend and hour or so here. From here we walked to the Gangnam statue, took pictures, made videos and then went inside the mall to go see the Starfield Library. Wow, it is beautiful and definitely worth seeing. Yes, the library is worth seeing. 
We had planned on going to the Seoul forest from here, but we got lazy and headed back. On our way, we decided to get a hair spa done. And we checked with two most popular places, Juno here and Eco Jardin and Juno hair could get us in. We spent the next hour pampering ourselves and making our hair soft, smooth and healthy! It was quite relaxing and pampering.
Dinner @ Zero Complex
 
We were taking it easy today, so we headed to the hotel and took a break before we got ready for our Michelin Star restaurant dinner.  Alka had already made reservation for us at Zero Complex. Only trouble was, finding this place. It was located in a residential area and the cars don't go in those narrow streets, so we got down earlier and then we headed to the restaurant and got kind of lost, but well we made it in the end. The dinner was fabulous, what is it about Michelin star restaurants that they made their food so good! Zucchini so good, I could eat everyday.
Soulful and tummy-full day. 





Day 3: Day trip to DMZ. Seoul Tower.

Today was outsourced to a tourist company we booked through Tripadvisor. To visit DMZ, you can only go through a licensed tour operator as it is a militarized zone. We got picked up early in the morning from our hotel and our guide, Nancy was a really nice guide. She spoke English quite well and was funny too. First up, we went to the red suspension bridge. A bit of a hike to the bridge, and Mummy Papa would have called it a Lakshman Jhoola. 
Next up, we went to the peace village located at the border of the DMZ. You can grab something to eat here and take a gondola ride across the river to go to small area which is cleared for tourists. The history between the two countries is quite sad and reminds you of India-Pakistan in many ways. Unfortunately, North Korea is cordoned off from the rest of the world so the south Koreans can't meet their long lost relatives. 
Next up, we went to the third infiltration tunnel. There is a small museum and a tunnel that was discovered a few decades ago. I easily managed to go inside the tunnel and walk towards the DMZ area (even though I am somewhat claustrophobic). I was fine. This is where we got DMZ souvenirs and a few pictures taken. 
Ikseon-dong
From here we headed for lunch and then back to our hotels. We got back by 4 pm, so we decided to do the other touristy thing left on our list. Go to the Seoul Tower. We reached and realized there was an hour long wait for the gondola. Other option would be to hike the well paved way to the top, which I think would be fun. But we decided to wait and once at the top it gave us beautiful panoramic views of the city. This city is so vast, I had no idea. From here we took the elevator up the tower and the main attraction were the screens in the elevator. Seamless screens on five side. What an experience! This place is fun. There are cute little shops, restaurants and people hanging out on the weekend. A fun place for picnic I'd think.
We got hungry after a bit and headed straight o an Indian restaurant in Myeongdong, Taj. The restaurant was good and super popular as it was full. Luckily we didn't have to wait much. Once done, we spent time strolling around Myeongdong. It is so lively, with so many screens all around, it almost feels like a mini Vegas without the gambling, but all the bling. We walked to the Cheonggyecheon Stream. It is a cute little stream in middle of the downtown with makeshift cushion chairs and books to borrow and read. this place was cute and hip at the same time. Made for a perfect stroll before we headed back to our hotel to crash for the day.


Day 4: Squid Games and more

In the morning, our first order of business was to headed straight for the Squid Games Experience in in the Seongdong area. The experience is good, and makes for a fun time playing all the games, but I wouldn't give it 5/5. If you aren't into it, skip it. We had fun though, and then spent time walking around the neighborhood and grabbing coffee. 
Squid Games Experience
Next up, was Ikseon-dong for cute cafeterias. There are three or four parallel streets here which are filled with beautiful, cute cafeterias and restaurants. We had fun just walking around and going inside these cafes. We even got our Korean Kundlis read for fun. And then found an Italian restaurant for lunch. The food everywhere in Seoul has been really good, no matter the cuisine. The cafeterias and cute, picture worthy and food and coffee are excellent. 
From here we walked to a cute little pagoda temple in a park and then headed to Olive Young to finish our beauty products shopping. We then headed to Myeongdong for some more shopping. And then, we headed to a massage parlor, of course.
After a brief break, we decided to go to Gwangjong for some street food. Alka had some dishes saved from her tiktok feed and she knew exactly what to get and which stall to go to I guess. She was one happy soul while I quietly munched on my vegetarian sandwich.


Day 5: Buh-bye Seoul!

Myeongdong Cathedral
We were flying out today and had kept the Myeongdong Cathedral for the last. Both of us love cathedrals, and we spent our time taking pictures and then grabbing some light Indian lunch at Taj, which was right across the cathedral. This was our final chance to grab anything else that we wanted to to before heading to the airport.
At the airport, I wanted to get some duty-free whiskey, but looks like whiskey isn't really a thin gin Korean they prefer non Korean whiskey and gave me a surprised look when we asked for Korean whiskey. We had enough time here to get our TAX refund, which wasn't much, but then, still, we were owed that money. And then we got some currency through the exchange. So, we got everything done and were ready for our flight home after a soulful trip to Seoul.