Wednesday, June 19, 2024

MEXICO (MEXICO CITY, TEOTIHUACAN)


An impromptu birthday trip to Mexico City was the best celebration I could ask for. One of my favorite people, Alka, readily agreed to accompany me on this adventure when I realized that Sumit won't be able to take any time off. And here we were, in the heart of Mexico city.

Here is our rough itinerary for four days in Mexico City -

Day 0: Arrive. Settle in.
Day 1: Chapultepec Castle, Pujol lunch, Artesano Market
Day 2: Day trip to Teotihuacan, Spa day, Tacos!
Day 3: Tour Frida Kahlo house, Coyocan, Xochimilco, Palace of Fine Arts
Day 4: Museum of Anthropology, Metropolitan Cathedral, National Palace Square, Condesa stroll
Day 5: Fly out


I 💖 Mexico City!

Mexico City has my heart. It has everything one could ask for. Chaos, Culture and Cuisine. It reminded me of Delhi in so many ways. The city is densely populated and the best way for us to get around was Uber. We didn't dare to take public transport. It has a lot of cute cafes, taquerias, restaurants, food stalls and Michelin star restaurants. Bon Appetite! People are polite and courteous. We chose to stay in central area near Chapultepec Castle in the Juarez area. Stay in a lively and upscale area. Just strolling on Avenue de la Reforma in the evening was so relaxing. Beautiful sculptures at every 'roundabout'. Before you go, just plan for some time to walk around and relax along with the things to see. And if you are interested in some Michelin star restaurants, then make sure you make reservations well in advance. 

Day 1

Chapultepec Castle
The weather was lovely! We stepped out to get breakfast at cute little cafe a couple of blocks from our hotel. Then we walked all the way to the Chapultepec Castle. It is a bit of a hike to get up there. Lovely castle, beautiful interiors and perfect views of the city. There are few great brunch places around the area, but they need reservations a few days in advance, so make sure to make those.
After our hike, we were headed to the Michelin star restaurant, Pujol, for my birthday dinner! We got so lucky that we got an afternoon reservation just a couple of days in advance. Our reservation was from 2-5pm and I wondered what would we do for 3 hours. But my oh my, three hours for a six(or was it seven?) course meal was fantastic. I never imagined that we could finish our meals and thoroughly enjoy them. Everything was flavorful, colorful and worth ever penny. We walked out at about 5:30 pm and the next meal we had was our breakfast the next day. 

Pujol



We walked down to very fancy perfume/fragrance shop close to Pujol. Xino. We had to pick up for a friend, and it was very interesting shop. The welcome area had a lots of lamps and no human. You just keep walking and take the dark stairway up three floors to get to the shop. Its all black walls and ceiling and the fragrance shop has two rooms with their few products laid out for you. It was an experience in itself and I am glad we went there.

Next up, we took an Uber to the Artisan Market. It reminded me of Palika Bazar in New Delhi. It shuts down at 6 pm or so, so check the hours before you go. We took a quick stroll through the shops and picked up some souvenirs. It is a good place to get your local shopping done if you want to. By now we were tired and headed back to the hotel, there was no way we were going to have dinner after our sumptuous meal at Pujol.


Day 2

We had an early morning full-day tour booked for Teotihuacan. If you plan to visit this site, I highly recommend booking a tour and getting their early in the morning. We got to learn the history and archaeological findings as well. The guide however repeated everything he spoke in English in Spanish for the tourists. That was very confusing; to tune in and tune out got exhausting. So much so, that I tuned all of it out. Might as well book an English only tour. Would be a better experience.

On our drive to the pyramids, we passed through the outskirts of Mexico city, which is densely populated and their is a network of gondola to take them around as the terrian is that of rolling hills. Pretty innovative I'd say. We got to the site early in the morning before other tourists had started pouring in. Hence, got a chance to take pictures without crowded people in the background. It was a lot of walking. We even got to climb one of the pyramids. 

Teotihuacan

Best Tacos Ever!
On our way out we stopped at this Mexican restaurant and a gift shop right outside the pyramids. Did some expensive shopping their for the Obsidian jewelry and tasted Mezcal. We got home early evening. Now was time for our massage appointment. There are quite a few and we booked one closer to our hotel and it was a perfect after so much walking all day. Now that we were rejuvenated, we were ready to walk down for some TACOS! 

We headed to Tacos Ornico. Their logo is so funny. An upside down cow inside a taco shell. They had a long queue of customers but it was fast moving. They had a vegetarian option which was quite good. I understand why the tacos were worth the long queue. After dinner, we headed straight to Panderia Rosetta. Their guava roll is quite popular we learnt that it is usually gone my early afternoon! So we settled for a slice of another cake and coffee. More than the coffee or the cake, it was ambience that was so chic. The neighborhood is very upscale too. Hash! Now we were ready to retire for the night!


Day 3

Frida Kahlo Museum
We had another tour booked for this day. It was to get to Coyocan and Frida Kahlo museum combined with Xochimilco. First we had an obligatory stop at a silver shop. Apparently they made the famous Heart of Ocean Necklace for Spielberg for his movie, Titanic. The famous Kate Winslet necklace. Sigh! Once we got this out of the way, we were headed to Coyocan. Here we roamed around the neighborhood, visited an old cathedral, had crepes, went to small marketplace to do some more shopping and then headed to the Frida Kahlo museum. In hindsight, we could have simply Uber'd here. And walked around the neighborhood, plaza, etc. Then walked to the Frida Kahlo House. Frida Kahlo house/museum was very intriguing. Se became more real to me. And I learnt more about her life and her struggles. Definitely worth a visit. 

Next was a quick stop at the University (of Mexico?) to see some murals and a stadium on our way to Xochimilco. The highlight was Xochimilco. This place with water canals and floating gardens was the most fun place on this day. The boats were beautifully decorated. Some were selling stuff and and some had Mariachi bands that would hop on to your boat and sing songs for your boat. It was party time! This was a lot of fun and I am glad we went with a group. Just the two of us wouldn't have had as much fun. Highly recommend doing this with a group. This is wear we purchased our Friday Kahlo headbands. We got back to our hotel around 6 pm from our tour.

Xochimilco

After a couple of hours, we decided to head out for dinner. Now I wanted some Indian food, so we headed to an Indian restaurant near Chinatown, Swagat. We roamed around Chinatown and headed to the plaza next to the Palace of Fine Arts. The place is beautifully lit and so happening. There was lively music, hawkers, families, kids, couples, Salsa circle going on. We walked around a bit and it reminded us of what happens at India Gate in the evenings. There is a very popular Churros place in this area as well. I forget the name, but just google it if you like Churros. And with Churros, we called it a night.


Day 4

Metropolitan Cathedral
Today was a free day, so we booked an impromptu tour of Anthropology Museum. But first, we had to head to Panderia Rosetta to make sure we got our Guava rolls! Then we were headed to the Museum. The museum itself is a beautiful set of building around an open space and a fountain. The tour started off great, and the first 20 minutes were so interesting that we were thoroughly engaged to our own surprise, but as the tour went on, it became unbearable with each passing minute. Plus, the hunger got to us and the Guava rolls weren't enough and we were slowly getting hangry. We decided to ditch the tour after an hour or so and headed to Zanaya for a soul filling brunch. Burp.

Next we Uber'd to the Metropolitan Cathedral and the National Palace Square. It was a weekend and there was so much going on all over the plaza. We walked around a bit and then headed to the Condesa area. We walked around aimlessly and when we were near Parque de Mexico, it started to rain. Like pour. We quickly called an Uber and headed to Maestro Taqueria. Unfortunately they didn't have anything vegetarian, but their Beef Tacos were great is what I hear. 

We had wonderful four days and I think we checked off everything on our list. Yay! I am definitely coming back if my daughter learns to talk in Spanish, because then it'll be so much more fun! 

Tips:

  • If you intend to go to Frida Kahlo museum by yourself, make sure to get the tickets in advance. They get sold out pretty quickly.
  • You could google for "Taco Trail" and try the taco shops on the trail.
  • Make reservations for high end and popular restaurants in time.